All About Brassy Hair: Why It Happens & How to Get Rid of It

Brassy hair is a common issue that many people face. In this article, with a little help from our Chief Chemist, Dr. Joe, we're delving into the science behind hair discolouration.

We'll also explore the common causes of brassy hair, and provide you with tips and effective treatments to bring back that beautiful, cool-toned shade.

So, let's get started!

What Is Brassy Hair?

finger pointing to brassy hair

Brassy hair refers to hair that has a warm, orange or yellow undertone instead of the desired cool, ashy tone.

This discolouration can be quite frustrating, especially for those who prefer a cooler hair colour. But fear not, with the right knowledge and
treatments, brassy hair can easily be managed and corrected.

What Causes Brassy Hair?

dr joe cincotta

Color Wow chief chemist (and formulator of hundreds of award-winning hair product innovations) Dr. Joe Cincotta, explains what makes hair colour go brassy:

“Brassy hair is a problem that happens to two key hair types: natural hair that hasn’t been dyed or coloured and is a light shade (blonde, white, gray) and colour-treated hair that has been chemically dyed or bleached to achieve a desirable colour.”
 

“Hair naturally contains red, orange, and yellow pigments, which are more dominant in darker hair. When you lighten your hair with dye or bleach, the natural pigments are lifted, but some of the warm, brassy tones (reds and yellows) may remain.”
  

“The look of brassy hair happens because of changes in hair structure which, in turn, alter which colour pigments are dominant and most visible.”

There are several key factors that cause brassiness to happen to these two hair types:

1. Oxidation

oxidation symbol

Exposure to air, UV light, and pollutants can cause oxidation, which alters the chemicals in the hair dye and reveals warm undertones.

Oxidation breaks down the cool tones in the dye, leaving behind the warmer, brassy tones.

2. Sun Exposure + Colour Fade

sun symbol

The sun's powerful UV rays can break down hair dye molecules, fading the cool tones faster than the warm tones.

This can lead to the hair taking on a brassy, orange, or yellow tint. Read our guide for more information on how the sun can damage your hair.

3. Hard Water

illustration of a bathtub

Hard water, which contains high levels of minerals like iron and copper, can deposit on the hair. These metals react with the hair dye and often result in brassy or orange tones, especially for blondes and lighter shades. We dive into the signs of hard water on hair in one of our recent articles.

4. Chlorine exposure

illustration of a swimming pool

Swimming in chlorine-treated pools can lead to chemical reactions with the hair, resulting in brassy tones. Chlorine strips the hair of its natural oils and can interact with minerals in the water to cause discolouration. You can read more about how to protect hair from chlorine here.

5. Pollution and Environmental Factors

illustration of smoke billowing from chimney tops

Exposure to pollutants, smoke, or other environmental factors can affect the colour of natural hair.

This makes it appear duller and sometimes bringing out warmer, brassy tones.

6. Product Buildup

illustration of a product

The use of certain styling products, shampoos, or conditioners that aren't specifically formulated for colour-treated hair can strip the colour and reveal the underlying warm tones. Products with sulphates or harsh ingredients can accelerate fading, which leads to brassiness.

7. Improper Hair Care

illustration of hair ruffled and damaged

Skipping colour-protecting shampoos or conditioners, frequent heat styling that dehydrates and damages hair or over-washing your hair can all cause the colour to fade unevenly and reveal unwanted warm hues.

What Does Brassy Hair Look Like?

brass vs no brass

How can you know if your hair has taken on unwanted brassy tones? Here’s a checklist of brassy hair indicators.

These are telltale signs that can help you take the necessary steps to remedy the situation and restore your hair’s natural beauty: 

  • Your hair has a warmer tone than desired, appearing more orange or yellow. This shift in colour can be particularly noticeable if you had previously achieved a cool-toned shade.
  • You're experiencing colour fading or unevenness. Brassy hair often manifests as patches of colour that have faded or become uneven, resulting in an overall lack of vibrancy.
  • Your hair feels dry, brittle, or lacks shine. Brassy hair is often accompanied by a change in texture, making it feel rough and dehydrated. This can be attributed to the underlying damage caused by the brassiness. Learn more about the other causes of dry hair in our guide.

Does Brassy Hair Fade?

Brassy tones in dyed or bleached hair can fade over time, but they often persist as the underlying warm natural pigments re-emerge with the fading of the dye or toning treatments.

How to Get Rid of Brassy Hair

If your hair colour has already turned brassy, don't worry! There are several effective treatments that can help you combat brassiness in hair.

1. Use a Pre-Shampoo Mineral Remover

color wow dream filter

Adding a pre-shampoo mineral remover to your hair care routine can be a game-changer, especially if you're dealing with brassiness or dullness caused by hard water or mineral buildup.

We recommend Color Wow Dream Filter - our hard water detox treatment that removes colour-distorting minerals in just three minutes, resulting in brighter, shinier, silkier hair.

2. Invest in Our Best Shampoo for Brassy Hair

color wow color security shampoo

Using a colour-safe shampoo is essential for managing brassy hair as it helps preserve toned hair, preventing the fading of colour treatments designed to neutralise unwanted warmth.

Our Color Security Shampoo is the only 100% clean, sulphate-free shampoo that leaves no residues behind. The best part? It’s suitable for all hair types.

If you’re thinking about getting a purple shampoo or any type of colour rinse, Dr. Joe says, think again. He says: 

I do not recommend toning shampoos. These purple or blue shampoos contain temporary inky-dark dyes that are deposited on the hair, then mostly rinsed away, with the intent of leaving behind a light lavender or pale blue tint to offset brassy tones.

But the dyes used in these shampoos will also stain the scalp and can cause irritation, allergic reactions, even possible hair thinning with long-term use. Not to mention, they will stain your hands, towels and make a general mess of your bathroom!” 

3. Use a Toning Foam

color wow color control purple foam

Using a toning foam is an effective, convenient, mess-free way to combat brassiness in hair.

Because they are leave-in formulas, toning foams are much more precise and easier to use than traditional dark purple toners or shampoos.

Our Color Control Purple Toning + Styling Foam instantly gets rid of brassy tones.

You can use it on blonde and gray hair, and it'll reduce brassiness without the mess, crunch or stickiness of a regular purple shampoo! 

4. Salon Colour Correction

If the brassiness is severe or you're unsure about fixing it yourself, a professional colour correction at a salon is a good option. Stylists can assess your hair's condition and choose the right treatment to achieve the desired shade. 

5. Avoid Heat Styling

Heat can exacerbate brassiness by causing colour to fade faster. Limit the use of hot tools like straighteners and curling irons, and always choose styling products with built in heat protectant properties (like every styling product in the Color Wow range) when you do style.

6. Protect Your Hair from the Sun

color wow money mist and pop and lock

UV rays can contribute to brassiness.

Wear a hat or use hair products with UV protection like Money Mist or Pop & Lock High Gloss Finish when you're out in the sun. 

Money Mist is our lightweight leave-in conditioner, suitable for all hair types, while Pop & Lock is a glossing serum that smooths frizz.

 7. Shower Filter

Hard water can deposit minerals in your hair, which is one of the causes of brassy hair. Consider installing a shower filter to remove these minerals.

8. Regular Maintenance

color wow money masque

Condition hair regularly to keep it hydrated and supple. Hair in optimal condition holds colour better and is less likely to turn brassy. 

In addition to your in-shower conditioner, we suggest boosting hair hydration with a powerful, light leave-in conditioner like Money Mist or a deep penetrating conditioning treatment (like Chris Appleton’s Money Masque) to keep your hair hydrated.

 

@colorwowuk Our viral hair mask in collaboration with @Chrisappleton1 comes with a detangling comb…for a limited time only! 🤩 #colorwow #moneymasque #colorwowhair #hairtok ♬ original sound - Color Wow UK

 

9. Limit Chlorine Exposure

Chlorine can strip colour from your hair, leading to brassiness. Wear a swimming cap or apply a protective hair product before swimming in chlorinated water.

By following these tips, you can effectively fix brassy hair and maintain the beautiful, cool blonde shade you love.

And if brassy hair does occur, there are numerous at-home and professional treatments available to help you restore your desired shade.

Check out our full range of colour-extending hair products.

Not sure where to start on your Color Wow hair journey? Take our 60-second hair quiz to discover the perfect personalised routine for your hair type.


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Read more hair colour tips and tricks on the Color Wow blog:

  • How Do I Keep My Colour Fresher for Longer?
  • Tips for Maintaining Coloured Blonde Hair
  • The Science Behind Bleach-Damaged Hair
  • Dr. Cincotta holds a Ph.D. in Organic Chemistry from the City University of New York, and is currently VP of Research + Development at Color Wow.

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