May 01, 2026

How to Use a Hair Mask Correctly: Let's Ask Dr. Joe

Those gloopy, DIY from-the-fridge hair masks on TikTok? Yeah, we watch them too. 😳 But when it comes to what goes on our hair...(and our scalps!) we look to the pros for the best hair masks to achieve the silky, glossy, healthy-looking hair results we’re after.

In this guide, we’ll simplify and demystify the world of hair masks. With the help of Color Wow Chief Chemist, Dr. Joe Cincotta, we’ll look at what a hair mask is and what the benefits are.

How to Use a Hair Mask to Get the Best Results

Prepare Your Hair

Person rinsing hair under a showerhead, water flowing over dark hair.

Before applying a hair mask, it's important to prepare your hair by washing it with a gentle shampoo and towel-drying it until it is damp.

This will help the hair mask to penetrate the hair more effectively. But did you know that the temperature of the water you use to wash your hair can also make a difference?

Warm water opens up the hair cuticle, allowing the mask to penetrate even deeper, while cold water helps to seal the cuticle and lock in the benefits of the mask.

Apply the Mask Evenly

Next, take a generous amount of the hair mask and apply it evenly to your hair, focusing on the lengths and ends.

Use your fingers or a wide-toothed comb to distribute the product thoroughly.

Dr. Joe's hair mask application tip:

“Unless a mask is specifically designed to be massaged into your scalp, it’s important to apply only to hair strands. Many masks have thick high levels of emulsifiers or waxy ingredients that could block or clog hair follicles if you rub the product into your scalp.

After you apply a mask, there’s no problem if you gather your hair up on top of your head to keep it out of your way while it processes... just don’t assume you’re doing something healthy for your hair by rubbing any type of hair mask into your scalp.”

Rinse Thoroughly

Woman drying wet hair with a soft white towel.

Once the recommended time has passed, it's time to rinse off the mask.

Use lukewarm water to thoroughly remove the product from your hair.

Avoid using hot water as it can strip away the natural oils and leave your hair feeling dry and brittle.

For best results with any hair mask you use, always read and follow manufacturer’s directions – or go online to check usage instructions and find how-to tutorials.

How Often Should You Use a Hair Mask?

How often you give your hair a hair mask treatment depends on your hair type and its specific needs.

Dry, damaged hair or colour-treated hair will definitely benefit from using a deep hydrating hair mask once or twice a week.

Dr. Joe Cincotta advises using a weekly super hydrating hair mask for color-treated hair.

If your hair is in relatively good condition, adding a rich, nourishing hair mask into your routine once every two weeks or so will boost hair’s suppleness, resilience and glow.

How Long Should You Keep a Hair Mask on?

Most hair masks suggest leaving them on for 10-20 minutes to allow the ingredients to deeply penetrate and nourish your hair.

You will still benefit if you rinse the mask off sooner, but ideally you should follow the instructions on the package (or online).

Can You Leave a Hair Mask on Overnight?

No, you shouldn't leave a hair mask on overnight. Extended exposure to certain ingredients can cause hair to become greasy, weighed down, or even damaged.

Stick to the recommended timeframe to ensure you achieve the best possible results without causing any harm to your hair.

Does a Hair Mask Replace Conditioner?

Hair masks are typically more intensive treatments that deliver higher concentrations of active ingredients to deeply nourish, hydrate and strengthen hair. They are used less frequently than conditioners—usually once a week or bi-weekly, depending on your hair's needs.

Conditioners, on the other hand, are essential for regular use after shampooing to detangle, smooth, and moisturise the hair, making it more manageable. You can use a rinse-out conditioner in the shower, or a leave-in conditioner on damp or dry hair. (Or both, if you have dehydrated, damaged or frizz-prone hair.)

Read more about the different types of conditioners in our guide.

Do You Use Conditioner after a Hair Mask?

Hair masks deliver dramatic benefits. But if you want, you can follow up with a superlight, leave-in conditioning treatment to further boost suppleness, shine and amplify heat protection benefits.

Can You Put a Hair Mask on Dry Hair?

According to Dr Joe, “Some masks are formulated to be used on dry hair. But most masks are intended for use on freshly shampooed, damp hair because, ideally, the shampoo has cleared away build-up and left no residues behind on the hair (like our Color Security shampoo) so there are no films or impediments that block the mask from penetrating into the hair."

"And secondly, wet or damp hair is more porous, so nourishing ingredients penetrate more quickly and easily.”

Which Ingredients Should I Avoid in Hair Masks?

“Waxes, oils, butters and emulsifiers are ingredients that give hair masks a thick, rich, creamy texture...but are not ideal."

"Why? These dense ingredients form a heavy coat on hair strands which might FEEL like a luxurious treatment, but in reality, the density high viscosity masks actually BLOCK any nourishing actives or moisturising humectants in the formula from penetrating into the hair, where the moisture is needed most.”

What Hair Mask is the Best? Let Us Introduce You to Our Favourites...

Color Wow Money Masque jar with blue packaging on a textured background.

1. Money Masque

Created in collaboration with celebrity stylist Chris Appleton and Color Wow, Money Masque is not just any hair treatment; it's a deep hydrating marvel designed for all hair types.

This weightless formula, which has a unique rich-gel consistency, is Chris Appleton’s go-to one-step prep for achieving luxe, super healthy-looking hair on every hair type and texture.

Unlike other treatments that can leave a waxy, heavy buildup, Money Masque instantly absorbs into your hair, working its magic without weighing it down.

2. Dreaming

Created by Color Wow’s visionary chemists Dr. Joe Cincotta and Linda Coppola—renowned for their groundbreaking innovations in hair fiber repair—Dreaming instantly transforms hair’s appearance with a sleek, high-gloss finish and fluid, aligned strands that look and feel like an entirely new head of hair.

Infused with a powerful blend of oils—including squalane and rice bran—plus protein-packed quinoa and naturally derived polymers, Dreaming seamlessly absorbs into the hair’s outer cuticle layer, smoothing over cracks, sealing split ends, and visibly restoring damaged areas for a silkier, healthier look.

Other Hair Mask FAQs

Is it possible to over-use a hair mask?

Yes. While hair masks can be incredibly beneficial, it is possible to overuse them, which can lead to product buildup and weigh down your hair.

If your hair feels greasy, heavy, or limp, you may be overusing hair masks. Adjust the frequency of your hair masking routine accordingly to find the right balance for your hair.

Can you use a hair mask on fine hair?

Yes, but look for a mask that doesn’t contain heavy waxes or emollients. These will cling to hair, and weigh it down.

New hair mask technology, like Color Wow Money Masque, is perfect for fine hair because it absorbs instantly to nourish and hydrate deep within hair and doesn’t leave a heavy coating on hair’s surface.

Can you use a hair mask on colour-treated hair?

Dr. Joe explains, “When hair is colour-treated, the outer cuticle layer has been lifted and hair structure altered. Colour-treated hair loses moisture more easily, so it needs extra hydrating, moisturising and fortifying ingredients.

I recommend using a super hydrating hair mask every week. Be careful of using masks that contain ingredients like essential oils or fragrances that could impact your hair colour.”

Money Masque and Dreaming, like all Color Wow products, contain no ingredients that could dull, darken or adversely affect hair colour.

Do I need a special hair mask for my hair type?

“Some hair masks have specialised ingredients to help temporarily solve hair problems, like thickening agents that adhere to fine, thin hair.

But the real job of a hair mask is to restore hair to optimal condition, and the key to this is MOISTURISATION, inside and outside the strands. Every hair type or texture benefits from added moisture from a deep hydrating mask.”

What is the best hair mask for grey hair?

“Grey hair is extremely dry and porous, and tends to be fine, weak and brittle.

The best product for this hair ‘condition’ is a deep hydrating mask that helps ‘fill’ the hair with missing moisture, which gives the hair renewed softness and fluidity.”

Do expensive hair masks work better than cheaper ones?

“The price of a product doesn’t guarantee performance.

But high quality ingredients, and known strengthening actives that are bio-compatible with hair (like blue sea kale, sea kelp, algae) in high concentrations will definitely deliver more dramatic results and cumulative benefits than inexpensive oils, butters and waxes that smooth hair’s surface temporarily.”

Can a hair mask make my hair grow?

“There are some medical treatments applied as hair masks that help with hair growth. These need to be prescribed by a doctor.

Over-the-counter beauty products do not make hair grow, but they can make hair smoother, stronger, and more resistant to breakage which enables hair to grow longer and look its healthiest.”

Read more hair care tips and tricks on the Color Wow Blog: