What Does Hairspray Do? Let’s Ask Dr. Joe How It Works and Why You Need It

Hairspray is the ultimate game-changer in any hair routine. It’s not just about “locking in” a style—it’s about giving your hair the control, hold, and capacity to do what it wouldn’t naturally do.

Whether you’re sculpting a sleek updo, getting curtain bangs to hang perfectly or creating volume that defies gravity, hairspray helps you push the limits of your style and make it last.

But here’s the thing: today’s hairsprays do so much more than hold.

Innovative formulas, like our NEW Texas Hold 'Em Hairspray, deliver humidity resistance, frizz control and UV protection too!

So whatever your hair type or style vision, think of hairspray as your ultimate styling ally, helping you achieve looks you didn’t think were possible.

How Does Hairspray Work?

Our Chief Chemist, Dr. Joe Cincotta, weighs in on the science behind strong hold hairsprays:

“Strong hold Hairsprays really are an essential in every woman’s hair care arsenal, especially when you need to lock-in a style for a set period of time. Strong hold aerosol hairsprays are typically used as finishing products, applied at the end of your styling routine to fix hair in place."

"They work by laying a thin film of synthetic polymers on the hair surface that dries quickly and not only “freezes” individual fibers in a particular shape but also act as a “glue” to attach adjacent fibers together."

"This bundling of fibers creates additional structural support to the imparted style.”

WHAT ARE THE KEY INGREDIENTS AT WORK IN HAIRSPRAYS?

“Hairspray works through a blend of polymers dissolved in a fast drying medium or liquid. When you spray it onto your hair, the product’s liquid formulation turns into a fine mist.

As it dries, the polymers in the formula form a thin, flexible film on the surface of your hair strands. This film acts like a lightweight “glue” that holds your hair in place."

Polymers are the key ingredient for hold. They give hair pliability and have fixative properties so you can create structure and keep the hair situated where you want it.
Solvents are used to convey and distribute polymers onto the hair. On application, these agents evaporate leaving polymer behind.
The most advanced modern hairspray formulas also include conditioners, heat protection and shine-enhancing agents for added softness and gloss.

So, what does hairspray do? In short, hairspray gives your hair the control and hold it needs to keep your style looking polished, photo-ready, and perfectly in place.

When Was Hairspray Invented?

Hairspray as we know it today was invented in the 1940s, but its roots go back even further.

In the 19th century, women relied on sticky mixtures like gum arabic to keep their hairstyles in place. Thankfully, innovation took over, and by the mid-20th century, aerosol technology revolutionised haircare.

In the 1950s and 60s, hairspray became a household staple, with brands developing formulas tailored to trends like the bouffant and beehive, which required maximum hold. But as lifestyles evolved, so did hairspray.

Women and professional hair stylists wanted more flexibility, comfort, and versatility, so manufacturers adapted, creating formulas to deliver lightweight, touchable hold, along with benefits like humidity resistance and frizz control.

Today there’s a whole spectrum of hairsprays that work in different ways, helping you achieve the look you want and keep it for a long time.

How Should I Use Hairspray, and How Long Does It Last?

How you use hairspray—and how long it lasts—depends entirely on the formula you choose and your styling goals.

A strong-hold spray like Texas Hold 'Em Hairspray is ideal for structured styles like sleek updos or voluminous blowouts that need to stay put all day. Texas Hold 'Em is our newest strong-hold hairspray.

This radical NEW type of hairspray is perfect for bigger, bolder, better Texas-sized styles. Plus, it features heat protection, a rare blend of emollients and reduced alcohol on your hair so it’s gentler on strands.

Meanwhile, a flexible-hold spray like Cult Favorite is ideal for working with hair as you style. It gives your hair body and guts, and is perfect for building up layers or creating soft waves and more relaxed, touchable styles.

Cult Favorite is totally brushable, meaning you can always change your mind and change your style because the hair is not firmly fixed in place.

Best Hair Care Routine to Prevent Hairspray Build Up

Adding hairspray products to your styling arsenal is a no-brainer. Hairspray is an “instant gratification” superstar styler!

With virtually no effort, (and no special skills required!) you can completely transform your hair and look with a fresh style that lasts a long time!

It’s easy to see why hairspray is a daily go-to for so many people...and an indispensable necessity for pro stylists.

So, should you worry about hairspray buildup? Not at all... provided you’re already in the habit of basic, “healthy hair care” best practices.

1. Wash Your Hair Properly

If you’re using hairspray regularly, washing your hair more frequently is key to avoiding buildup. Skipping washes or relying heavily on dry shampoo can allow residue to accumulate, which may dull, dehydrate or even damage your hair over time.

Washing your hair 2-3 times a week—or more if needed based on your styling habits—will help keep your strands and scalp optimally fresh and clean.

2. Focus on Scalp Health

To keep your scalp optimal condition, incorporate products like Youth Juice Scalp Treatment into your routine.

This concentrated serum helps nourish your scalp and create the ideal environment for stronger, healthier-looking hair.

3. Hydrate Regularly

Hairsprays (especially sprays that deposit heavy amounts of alcohol on hair) can sometimes dry out your hair. Look for a hairspray that deposits reduced alcohol on your hair.

And, incorporate a hydrating product like Color Wow Money Masque a deep conditioning treatment that restores moisture and leaves your hair soft, shiny, and healthy-looking- into your routine.

Your Hairspray FAQs Answered

Does hairspray damage hair?

Hairsprays that deposit heavy amounts of alcohol on hair or make strands crispy and brittle can dehydrate and/or damage your hair.

Especially if you have fragile, bleached, or over-processed hair, brushing or tugging at hardened hairspray can result in breakage.

Heavy hairspray use can also lead to product buildup, which may make hair feel dull or dry over time.

To avoid this, use a sulfate-free shampoo like Color Security Shampoo to gently remove residue and follow up with a hydrating conditioner to keep your hair soft and healthy.

Can I dye my hair with hairspray on it?

It’s best to wash out any hairspray before dyeing your hair. Hairspray creates a light coating on your strands, which can interfere with how the colour adheres to your hair.

To get the best results, cleanse your hair with a residue-free shampoo before your colouring appointment.

Can you use hairspray on wet hair?

Most flexible-hold styling sprays (aka “working sprays”) can be used on damp (NOT soaking wet!) hair. These types of sprays become firmer as the product dries.

Strong hold hairsprays are designed to be used on dry hair. Spraying it onto wet hair can dilute the formula, making it ineffective and potentially leaving hair sticky.

Dr. Joe emphasises: “I would not suggest applying a hard hold hairspray to wet hair since in many cases the polymers are not very soluble in water and it can create a mess on the hair surface. Finishing products are designed for use on dry hair.”

Hairspray is more than just a styling product—it’s a powerful tool that gives your hair the hold, control, and freedom to achieve styles you wouldn’t normally be able to pull off.

Understanding how to choose and use the right formula ensures your style stays exactly how you want it.

Read more about styling and hair science on the Color Wow Blog:

Not sure where to start on your Color Wow hair journey? Take our 60-second hair quiz to discover the perfect personalised routine for your hair type.